Thursday, March 1, 2012

Learning the system

This morning I went into Brikama from Jambanjelly with Lamin. We rode via bush taxi, the crowded little mini bus that can fits about 20 people or so. I wasn't expecting to do this, but I woke up to find out that the last little bit of money for my trip had arrived from my wife Megan, and I wanted to fetch it ASAP. Lamin knocked on my door shortly after I found out after reading a text message that she sent overnight. Shirtless, in somewhat of a stupor from being tired, I answered to Lamin's knock, and asked him if he would be heading into Serrekunda for more business this morning. Brikama is on the way to Serrekunda, which meant we could stop to receive the money transfer. Lamin was in a bit of a hurry to get back to his garden in Jambanjelly, where workers were starting the construction of cement blocks that will line the outside of the property. Lamin said he would drop me in Brikama and continue onto Serrekunda by himself so that he could hurry back to Jambanjelly for work in the garden.

Upon arrival in Brikama at the car park, Lamin took me to the spot that all bush taxis heading towards Jambanjelly line up. This way, I would know where to go after picking up the transfer from the bank. We bid each other a temporary farewell, and for the first time in my two trips to the Gambia, I was on my own, calling my own shots. Moriba wasn't there to negotiate anything....it was just me. Unless you count walking back to Moribas compound in Brikama from the internet cafe, and to Lamin's garden from his compound, I haven't really been out on my own that much. As I exited the busy car park, where it felt like there must've been over 100 bush taxis, people walked up to me saying "Westfield junction, Westfield junction!" or "Banjul! Banul!" depending on where they were heading, trying to get me to jump in. I just smiled or said "Hani" (no) and continued walking out of the car park. I walked by vendors selling many things, fruits, shoes, etc...typically, 5 or more vendors selling the same item will set up shop right next to each other. It seems kind of like the same concept as a Subway being open next to Meconi's subs in Olympia, but you have more competition here.

The transfer pickup went smoothly, and I walked over to a spot where Moriba and I usually get bread and beans for breakfast. I recognized the woman selling the bread from previous visits, and she sent me on my way with my daily bread. I wanted to get some bananas, and I found woman who had some that looked exceptionally ripe. She charged me 20 dalasi for four, which I thought might've been a bit overpriced, but I figured bananas that ripe would be worth it. Nothing is truly fixed in price around here, and I haven't really gotten the feeling of what it's like to negotiate a deal around here, because Moriba has done it for me. The bananas were worth it, probably the best ones I've tasted yet, and my chance to negotiate an overpriced item was soon upon me. I was back at the car park to catch the bush taxi back to Jambanjelly, and I saw a boy carrying thin slices of fresh coconut on his head. I asked him how much per slice, and he said 25 dalasi. I knew this was overpriced, because I have gotten them for 5 in the past with Moriba. I gave him a puzzled look and continued walking. I got all the way back to the spot that Lamin instructed me to catch the bush taxi, turned around, and found that the boy had followed me. "5 dalasi" he said politely. I smiled and pulled it out of my pocket, sort of giddy over the fact that I had just successfully negotiated my first deal solo in my two visits to Gambia. I enjoyed the coconut slice and a banana while I waited for 15 minutes or so for the bush taxi to depart for Jambanjelly. I'm feeling more comfortable about learning the system here....

After getting back to Jambanjelly, I walked to Lamins compound, ate my bread and another banana, and took my Kora to the garden a quarter mile walk away. I witnessed workers constructing cement blocks with sand, water, bags of dry concrete mix, and a template box that you pack all of these with. I've never seen anything like it. Perhaps this is how they make those cinder blocks back in the states that we've all seen. I took very good photo documentation of this. Check my facebook page in a few weeks.

I've been practicing my Kora quite a bit while hanging out at the garden. I've been getting better at singing with a few pieces, and working on some new ones. Many of the workers complimented me on my playing, and Lamin and Ousman seem quite happy about it as well.

I took a two hour nap after lunch this afternoon. Seems like 2 out of every four days are like this. Even with a second wind, the experience is still tiring.

Right now, I'm sitting in Lamins room here at the compound. He has the tv on for traditional wrestling. I can't understand a thing being said, but I witnessed this type of wrestling at both Dombondir and Kartong Festivals.

Gambia lost to Algeria 2-1 yesterday...sighs all around.

I've decided to go back to Jobarteh Kunda in Brikama this Saturday. I want to try to get some more quality recordings of Kora musicians before I go. I might come back to Lamins for my last full day on Monday, depending on how I feel. Moriba and I are going to try and go to the studio of Radio Gambia sometime to find a cassette recording of one particular Kora musician that I couldn't one of in Brikama. His name is Jali Nyama Suso, and I have been unsuccessul of finding anything of him in the states other than a couple of youtube videos. He passed away back in 1991.

All is well. I hope the same is true for everyone.

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